Permit? Why?

One of the hot topics for homeowners and contractors alike is on permitting a remodel.  I think this is worthy of discussion because it is a multifaceted issue.  In order to address the topic properly we need to look at the roles of various professionals, code requirements, and the purpose of inspections.

There are multiple problems in this picture, do you know what they are?

Aside from it being the law, one of the best reasons to get a permit is the assurance of your project being completed correctly. Code professionals are there to assure that the project is built to safety standards, and if a contractor doesn't want to get a permit for the work to be done, you have to ask: WHY? What short-cuts are your contractor willing to make and to what end?  Many don't want to have their project slowed down to get inspections, but some are not knowledgeable enough to build correctly.  Many states, like Washington, do not have strict requirements for contractors.  If you have a few hundred dollars, and decent credit, you too can secure a bond, some liability insurance and pick up your contractor's license. This can be done in a day or two, and you don't need to know anything about construction standards.  Knowing that, do you still want your contractor to convince you that you don't need a permit?  I would think that having a code professional who is knowledgeable in construction, having a look at your contractor's work, would bring some peace of mind.

"But I had my friend who is an architect design it, so I know it is good.  Should I still get a permit?"  My answer: Yes, and not just because I'm a code professional.  In my roles as Building Inspector and Plans Examiner I have seen various levels of plans, and I frequently send them back for revisions or request more information.

"I've been a contractor for 20 years, I think I know what I'm doing."  My response to this: Maybe not.  Building Code is by definition, the minimum standard to which things should be built.  Speaking from experience, as a contractor, I learned code from reading plans that architects designed, and from Building Inspectors giving me correction notices.  I never read a code book.  I considered myself a good contractor, and one who was code knowledgeable, yet my depth of understanding of the code was thin.

The best possible way to do a project is to hire a design professional to put your dream on paper, then apply code requirements to the method of construction.  For structural elements they can then hire a structural engineer, or apply a code prescriptive design.  When applying for a permit, a code professional will double-check the construction documents and design for code compliance.  As your contractor builds your dream, a code enforcement professional (Building Inspector) will ensure that it is done to code standards.  Keep in mind, that the code is for minimum standards.  There is nothing that says paint has to be evenly applied, or that a gap in your trim is unacceptable.  Quality control is not the responsibility of the Building Inspector.

When do I permit?  The more applicable question is when do I not need a permit, because the code is very specific about this.  Any work that is not listed in these exemptions... needs a permit.  The 2015 International Residential Code reads:

R105.2 Work exempt from permit.
Permits shall not be required for the following. Exemption from permit requirements of this code shall not be deemed to grant authorization for any work to be done in any manner in violation of the provisions of this code or any other laws or ordinances of this jurisdiction.
Building:

1. One-story detached accessory structures used as tool and storage sheds, playhouses and similar uses, provided the floor area does not exceed 200 square feet (this is a Washington State Amendment to the IRC, the actual code reads 120 square feet).

2. Fences not over 7 feet (2134 mm) high.

3. Retaining walls that are not over 4 feet (1219 mm) in height measured from the bottom of the footing to the top of the wall, unless supporting a surcharge.

4. Water tanks supported directly upon grade if the capacity does not exceed 5,000 gallons (18 927 L) and the ratio of height to diameter or width does not exceed 2 to 1.

5. Sidewalks and driveways.

6. Painting, papering, tiling, carpeting, cabinets, counter tops and similar finish work.

7. Prefabricated swimming pools that are less than 24 inches (610 mm) deep.

8. Swings and other playground equipment.

9. Window awnings supported by an exterior wall which do not project more than 54 inches (1372 mm) from the exterior wall and do not require additional support.

10. Decks not exceeding 200 square feet (18.58 m²) in area, that are not more than 30 inches (762 mm) above grade at any point, are not attached to a dwelling and do not serve the exit door required by Section R311.4.

Electrical:

1. Listed cord-and-plug connected temporary decorative lighting.

2. Reinstallation of attachment plug receptacles but not the outlets therefor.

3. Replacement of branch circuit overcurrent devices of the required capacity in the same location.

4. Electrical wiring, devices, appliances, apparatus or equipment operating at less than 25 volts and not capable of supplying more than 50 watts of energy.

5. Minor repair work, including the replacement of lamps or the connection of approved portable electrical equipment to approved permanently installed receptacles.

Gas:

1. Portable heating, cooking or clothes drying appliances.

2. Replacement of any minor part that does not alter approval of equipment or make such equipment unsafe.

3. Portable-fuel-cell appliances that are not connected to a fixed piping system and are not interconnected to a power grid.

Mechanical:

1. Portable heating appliances.

2. Portable ventilation appliances.

3. Portable cooling units.

4. Steam, hot- or chilled-water piping within any heating or cooling equipment regulated by this code.

5. Replacement of any minor part that does not alter approval of equipment or make such equipment unsafe.

6. Portable evaporative coolers.

7. Self-contained refrigeration systems containing 10 pounds (4.54 kg) or less of refrigerant or that are actuated by motors of 1 horsepower (746 W) or less.

8. Portable-fuel-cell appliances that are not connected to a fixed piping system and are not interconnected to a power grid.

The stopping of leaks in drains, water, soil, waste or vent pipe; provided, however, that if any concealed trap, drainpipe, water, soil, waste or vent pipe becomes defective and it becomes necessary to remove and replace the same with new material, such work shall be considered as new work and a permit shall be obtained and inspection made as provided in this code.

The clearing of stoppages or the repairing of leaks in pipes, valves or fixtures, and the removal and reinstallation of water closets, provided such repairs do not involve or require the replacement or rearrangement of valves, pipes or fixtures.